Losses in early cotton sowing

May 16, 2011: COTTON growers in lower Sindh especially in Sanghar district have suffered germination losses owing to questionable variety of seeds and very early crop sowing. Many of them are cultivating the crop afresh,
incurring extra expenditure.

According to estimates of the agriculture department officials, 35 per cent of the area normally set for cotton crop has so far been brought under cultivation.

“The Federal Committee on Agriculture (FCA) has not set the target for the current year’s cotton production so far amidst report that agriculture is now a devolved subject and its job would be carried out by provincial agriculture departments.

For the same reason the FCA’s meeting has not been held as yet, says Amin Thebo, an official of the crop reporting services.

He says last year cotton was cultivated over a target area of 650,000 hectares in Sindh, but the unprecedented floods ruined the crop over a vast area on the right bank’s katcha and settled areas reducing it to 475,000 hectares.

There are various reasons behind the damage to the current crop such as unusual climatic conditions particularly northern winds, the unsuitable sowing period, and the quality of seed.

Sowing of cotton is recommended in early April in the lower region of Sindh. But in the current season, cotton growers started its cultivation as early as February and March after persuasion by seed providers, who claimed that early sowing would give a better yield.


“I myself opted for Tarzan-I variety of BT cotton which is an early maturing variety with 100 maund per acre yield. But the weather did not support the crop,” says Thebo. Growers had sown the seed in March but its germination was badly affected.

Sanghar is an important district for cotton production, and according to official figures, this district cultivates over 135,500 hectares. But the growers of the district are also complaining of huge losses owing to early sowing of the crop and are re-cultivating the crop.

In other cases, cultivators were filling the gaps in their lands where seed germination had been affected, and are incurring extra expenditure on seed, labour and other outputs. In several cases, growers were told to sow 701 seed, a variety of BT cotton that reportedly yields 100 maunds per acre, but it did not work and the growers suffered huge losses


“There is a tendency among many cotton growers that they do not clear their lands of cotton crop and keep them intact till the next Kharif season as clearing of cotton fields and preparing them for the Rabi wheat requires lot of investment. They keep picking cotton from the fields regardless of the quantity as even one maund of cotton per acre gives them reasonable income as compared to wheat,” says Haji Nadeem Shah of Matiari. The growers got Rs4,600 – 4775 per 40 kg for last year’s cotton, he added.

According to estimates, land preparation and per acre sowing of cotton requires between Rs30,000-35,000 including cost of diesel, tractor and pesticides. This year this will increase further in view of recent hike in petroleum and fertiliser prices.

Farmers in many cases do not grow wheat to avoid cost of inputs and feel comfortable even with minimum possible per acre yield of cotton till December. In the next Kharif season they go for fresh cotton crop cultivation,” says a Mirpurkhas-based cotton grower Mir Zafarullah Talpur. He also reports similar sort of damages to cotton crop in other parts of Mirpurkhas region.

Amanullah Shah of Sanghar district says, “I have ploughed land afresh where germination on below 25 per cent area is affected.” He has cultivated cotton over 60-70 acres. Growers used seeds 506 and 121 that gave the required germination results,” he says. “We will fill the gaps where seed germination has been poor,” he says.

Under the existing circumstances the growers have no option but to go for late sowing of cotton crop. Niaz Hussain Bodani of Sanghar used Sitara 008 for the first time and it failed to give the required result on 13 acres out of 35 acres on early sowing. “Normally, we sow cotton in April, he says.

“Cotton requires moderate weather and preferably spring season. Abnormal recent weather conditions( when temperature remained unusually high during March) played a critical role in the germination of seed and consequently damaged the crop, he says.

Big crop of pakistan

The 'life line' of the Indus River flows through the length of Pakistan. It sustains more than half of Pakistan's agriculturally dependant population and feeds 'thirsty' but profitable crops, such as cotton and sugarcane. However, producing one kilogramme of cotton, enough for a T-shirt and pair of jeans, requires more than 13,000 litres of water. And while 90 per cent of water taken from the Indus is used in agriculture, a WWF report highlights that only 30 per cent actually reaches the crop.
Cotton and sugarcane account for 1.9 and 0.7 per cent of Pakistan's GDP respectively. But the country is in danger of running out of fresh water. Many rural communities now face water shortages and, though rich in biodiversity, the Indus River is threatened by pollution and intensive water abstraction. Working in collaboration with WWF international, companies are sending a clear message to Pakistan's water-intensive cotton and sugarcane producers: retailers want quality, but they want sustainability, water efficiency and reduced use of chemical inputs.
But, according to WWF-UK's freshwater programme manager Rebecca May, persuading farmers to switch from cotton or sugarcane production is neither economically viable nor realistic. Instead, the introduction of Better Management Practices (BMP) has led to impressive results. Working on the premise that efficient pesticide and water use increases water availability, reduces pollution and saves on cost, WWF-Pakistan's freshwater programme has targeted almost 5,000 cotton and sugarcane Punjabi farmers in Faisalabad and Bahawalpur, with BMP training.

Pouring benefits back

Farmer Field Schools have taught growers to reduce their use of water, fertiliser and pesticides
WWF-Pakistan

Under the EC-funded Thirsty Crops project, Farmer Field Schools and workshops held over the last three years have taught growers to minimise pesticide use through improved identification of pests and beneficial insects and their interactions, and to better understand the health and environmental effects of pesticide use. Farmers have also learnt how to reduce water and fertiliser use by using indicators to assess irrigation and fertility needs, and by using organic manure and compost and different fertiliser application techniques. To further reduce water usage, bed and furrow irrigation (furrows are periodically irrigated) and alternate row irrigation (every other row is irrigated) have been promoted.
The benefits are not just environmental - crucially for farmers, they are economic as well. Farmers have been taught how to harvest and transport cotton and sugarcane to retain maximum market value. And a vital component of the project has been the involvement of the private sector through the Better Cotton and Better Sugar Cane Initiatives. Standards have been developed and major buyers are interested: 2008 saw the procurement of BMP cotton by IKEA's buyers in Pakistan.
Big business has been instrumental in getting farmers to comply with improved practices and the figures speak for themselves. In 2008, the Thirsty Crops project demonstrated that by using BMPs, cotton growers have reduced water, fertiliser and pesticide use by 37, 31 and 66 per cent respectively. Research trials also showed that sugarcane growers can achieve similar results, with pesticide application reduced by almost 100 per cent.
It has been a challenge convincing farmers to change their practices, since small scale growers do not want to take risks. But on-farm research, discovery-based learning with farmers, demonstration plots for BMPs, and working with and strengthening local farmer organisations, has convinced farmers that these better management practices make better business and environmental sense.

Thinking big, making a splash

The aim of the Thirsty Crops project is that eighty per cent of participating cotton and sugarcane farmers in Faisalabad and Bahawalpur will take up BMPs by the end of 2009. As a result, Hammad Naqi Khan, Director of WWF-Pakistan's freshwater programme, expects some 30,000 farmers to benefit directly or indirectly from the training. "We have shown farmers that they can increase their profit if they follow these practices. Cotton farmers get the market price for cotton and immediate payment for their product, whereas before payment may have been delayed. And the quality of the cotton is now better."

With training, farmers are improving their on-farm management practices
WWF-Pakistan

There is, however, more to do in developing policy and encouraging government extension departments to take improved farming practices to farmers, for example. But already better on-farm management practices have been picked up by 90 per cent of trained farmers in Pakistan and India. Where cotton is concerned, textile manufacturers, exporters and international buyers, including IKEA, are committed to buying and there is a system in place enabling them to do this. What is more, better practices have attracted business members of the Better Cotton Initiative and the Better Sugar Cane Initiative demonstrating that success for small farmers can be sustained.
Training efforts will be scaled up in the future and the WWF-Pakistan's freshwater team are optimistic that more big names - Levi, Gap, Coca Cola - will source BMP cotton or sugarcane. Naqi Khan enthuses: "I am pretty confident that this will expand like anything because there is demand from the commercial sectors. I am optimistic about that."

Green Dream Team

Natural and synthetic fiber producers are on the same team wnen it comes to offering eco-friendly fibers for nonwovens

by Sandra Levy • Associate Editor

Visit the homepage of any natural fiber supplier and chances are you'll find a link dubbed 'sustainability' prominently displayed. Click on the link and you'll find a slew of eco-friendly initiatives. Now visit the cyber halls of a synthetic fiber supplier. No mention of sustainability, right? Wrong.

These days producers of synthetic fibers have joined their natural counterparts in not only talking the talk, but also walking the walk when it comes to assuming more responsibility for the environment. While natural fiber suppliers have been enjoying the limelight as renewable and compostable alternatives to synthetic polymers, producers of polyester and polypropylene are making headway launching susta inability initiatives, increasing recyclability efforts, conserving energy and water and reducing landfill space.

The outcome: It's a win-win situation for nonwovens producers who are increasingly being pressed by consumers and retailers to go green. These days they have a wider choice of fibers for use in a plethora of applications. One of the eye-popping ideas gaining momentum is the use of regenerated fibers and recycled materials.

Keeping scrap materials out of landfills and the need for lower cost raw materials are two driving forces behind the use of regenerated fibers. From scrap cotton T-shirts, to jeans to plastic bottles, nonwovens producers are turning one man's trash into another man's treasure and fiber companies are helping them achieve this.

For the past three years Cotton Incorporated has worked with Arizona-based Bonded Logic to convert old blue jeans into household insulation. One of this partnership's latest efforts is a recent promotion sponsored by Bonded Logic, Cotton Inc. and Gap offering a discount to customers who bring in their old blue jeans to be recycled. These jeans are converted into insulation, which is donated to Habitat For Humanity for housing reconstruction in the Gulf region. “It's a new use for cotton, a second life that reduces landfill and addresses the need for sustainable, nonwoven building products," said Janet O'Regan, director of strategic initiatives.

A pioneer in the green movement, Barnhardt has been selling recycled cotton for over 60 years. While recycled, reclaimed or re- purposed cotton has been around for many years, Barnhardt is taking the lead in developing homogenous blends with its bleached and purified cotton combined with recycled cotton in a new Eco-Blend line of products. “You are taking fabrics that may have gone to a landfill in the past and regenerating and recycling it back into a usable fiber. That's great for the environment. A problem with the recycled cotton is that generally it is not highly absorbent. In some wipes applications absorbency may not be a critical requirement so Eco-Blend would be appropriate. Our bleached and purified cotton is highly absorbent. Depending on the end use application we can make blends with bleached cotton and recycled cotton and come up with a product that meets whatever the end use might be," said George Hargrove, vice president of sales and marketing.

Meanwhile, in the synthetic realm, Foss Manufacturing is making headway converting much of its raw material usage to Ecofi, a polyester fiber made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic bottles. Ecofi can be made into clothing, blankets, carpets, wall coverings, auto interiors, home furnishings and craft felt. It can also be blended with other fibers, such as cotton or wool.

Freudenberg is also heeding the call to use recycled materials with Lutradur ECO, a PET spunlaid nonwoven made of post consumer recycled (PCR) material that uses recycled drink bottles.

Available in a variety of weights and widths for all market segments including automotive, carpet, building and industrial, Lutradur ECO has similar product properties as all other high-quality Lutradur products.

Every square yard of pur 85 gsm Lutradur PCR nonwoven fabric contains one twoliter-bottle.

Recycled Plastic

Recycled plastic fibers are also elbowing their way into nonwovens territory. One company that is making inroads with recycled plastic fibers is Stein Fibers Ltd. Founded in the mid 1970s, Stein Fibers Ltd. started importing recycled fiber from Korea about 20 years ago. The company continues to import fiber from Korea, Taiwan and China but also makes its own polyester staple fiber at its plants in Georgia and South Carolina. “Needlepunch nonwovens have always been our focus. The polyester synthetic fiber is plastic pellets or chips that are extruded into thin strands of fiber. We take plastic drink bottles and recycle them. They are ground up and then heated up and extruded," said David Painter, Stein Fibers' vice president.

Pointing out that Stein Fibers was a proponent of recycling long before it was popular, Mr. Painter said the benefit of synthetics for nonwovens is durability and in the case of a recycled fiber, a smaller carbon footprint. “Cotton brings to the table absorbency where that's needed, but a polyester fiber is a stronger fiber and has more applications," said Mr. Painter.

Nonwoven applications include filtration, automotive, insulation filtration, face fabrics, such as surface fabric in trunk liners or carpet or upholstery fabric, home furnishings/furniture, mattresses and top of the bed.

The plastic raw materials are available in different shapes and forms including bottle flake, which are small flakes from ground up soda bottles and pellets (resin), which are little beads of the polyester polymer. “You can run bottle flake with a resin to increase color or get the whiteness of the fiber," said Mr. Painter.
Manufacturing colored polyester fiber is one innovation that Stein Fibers is banking on. The company makes a rich, dark black fiber for trunk liners and automotive carpet as well as a green fiber, which is an offshoot of the green raw material from 7-Up bottles.

“The buzz now is recycling. The consumer looks around now and realizes the impact we have on our environment in what we buy and how we live. They are looking at ways where they can help a little bit. It's not a big jump from recycling at home to buying products that have recycled content. It takes 10 plastic bottles to make one pound of fiber, "said Mr. Painter.

DAK Americas is moving ahead with Clear Path Recycling, a joint venture facility in Fayetteville, NC with Shaw Industries. “When it's complete, we'll be the largest PET bottle recycler in North America and the result of that venture will be the creation of a very high quality, consistent volume of recycled PET flake. Our intention is to use that as the foundation to begin looking for opportunities to integrate the recycled PET flake into our product lines. A small line is due to come on line shortly and the larger line will be up and running later in the year," said Wayne Proctor, senior manager of sales and marketing.

Consolidated Fibers' offers a range of staple fibers
for many nonwovens applications

Taiwan's Far Eastern New Century Corporation is getting in on the act with Ecolon fiber. “It is a regenerated raw material that is recycled from PET bottles. It is a new environmental friendly and ecological product," said Vincent Kuo, coordinator of R&D polyester staple fiber division, Far Eastern New Century Corporation.

The company produces polyester and specialty fibers for thermal bond, chemical bond, needlepunch, airlaid, wetlaid, Spunlace, and stitch punch. Nonwoven applications include hygiene, cover- stock, bandages, upholstery, mattresses, padding, interlining, artificial leather, carpet, needle felt, wiper, insulation, cushion and fiberfill.

Far Eastern New Century also produces PLA fiber in its factory in Taiwan using NatureWorks' PLA resin(chips). “The Ingeo fiber starts with an abundant, natural and sustainable raw material like corn. Overall, PLA fiber fabrics released significantly less smoke than PET or cotton fabrics. This fiber possesses low flammability and smoke generation. It's biodegradable and there is no environmental contamination. This fiber is focused on disposable applications. Ingeo means ingredient from the earth and keeps humanity, nature and technology in balance. It reduces fossil resource use, reduces CO2 emissions, and is an annually renewable resource," said Mr. Kuo.

Waste Not, Want Not

Recycling post industrial waste is another awesome innovation in nonwovens fibers. Leigh Fibers is one company that has been on a tear in this arena.

Applications include automotive, caskets, construction, currency, paper erosion control, filtration, furniture, home furnishings, mattresses, and pet products.

“Most of the synthetic fibers we use are post industrial. It could be a blanket where scrap falls off. We open it up and turn it back into a fiber. It's waste going into a product that doesn't go to a landfill. It was probably falling off to the floor. Since it's clean and brand new it is opened back up," said George Martin, executive vice president of sales and marketing.

“Growth is going to come from the green, sustainability angle. We take the waste and ensure it doesn't end up on the street and doesn't go to a landfill. Normally it's brand new material. In addition to that there's post industrial and post consumer. Lots of times, bales of used cloth are turned in and we shred it up," said Mr. Martin.

Leigh Fibers recently introduced SafeLeigh, an aramid fiber. “We've included in a blend an aramid fiber that is inherently FR. We use cuttings from the manufacturing process for firemen's jackets, bullet-proof vests and any type of protective gear that prevents someone from cuts or being burned. The material is added into our mix. It's recycled material from post industrial waste and has inherent properties. We have a dry process as opposed to a wet process," said Mr. Martin.

Mr. Martin postulated that post consumer will play a greater role than post industrial in nonwovens fibers provided the problem of collection is solved. “Machines are so efficient that there's not as much post industrial available. In post consumer there's a huge amount of waste available. The problem is collection. Today if you decide to change carpet, how is the carpet going to get to a recycling facility like ours?"

Leigh recently introduced two additions to its SafeLeigh line of fire-retardant, recycled fibers. SafeLeigh Natural and SafeLeigh Premium are predominantly meta-aramid and made with 100% recycled post-industrial materials.

SafeLeigh meta-aramid recycled fibers are ideal for flame-retardant fabrics and other heat shielding applications, according to the company. They are suitable for coarse yarn spinning and for the nonwoven fabrics used in bedding, filtration and many other products. SafeLeigh Natural is a natural colored fiber while SafeLeigh Premium is a multicolored fiber.

Another experienced player in the production of aramid fibers for flame and heat resistant protective clothing is Kermel. Based in France, offers new fabrics and protective clothing made out of its Kermel fiber. Fire suits for fire fighters, together with protective coveralls for public order squads, military and industrial uses are some of the most popular applications.

Kermel is also involved in technical applications with Kermel and Kermel Tech fibers. Thanks to their chemical structure (aromatic polyimide-polyamide type), Kermel Tech and Kermel fibers are inherently and permanently non-flammable. They provide maximum protection against high temperatures in very stringent environments, efficient protection against chemical agents and very good mechanical resistance. They can be used for maximal short term resistance against very high temperatures—up to 1000°C; and long term resistance against high temperatures— up to 220°C (peaks: up to 240°C).

Kermel products can be transformed into different kinds of textiles: fibers (long or short staple), technical yarns, fabrics, nonwovens.

Kermel is offering new solutions for industrial and technical applications subjected to high temperatures and flames such as: transports (aeronautics, automotive industries etc.), hot gas filtration, different industrial applications and electrical insulation.

One of the latest developments is the launch of high speed sports underwear and garments with the newly deposited SKEED brand name. SKEED introduces the first FIM recommended underwear for competition and touring motorcyclists with increased comfort that will lower the risk of burns due to friction in case of fall.

Wood Works

Cellulose or rayon, made from wood pulp, has been enjoying its role as a sustainable fiber option in nonwovens materials. These fibers are growing their presence in wet and dry wipes, tampons, technical applications such as filtration and battery separators and medical wound care.

“Sustainability topics are becoming increasingly important to consumers. They are looking at the packaging to see if the product is biodegradable or if it's coming from a natural source. In the last two to three years we have been highlighting the fact that we are producing pulp from wood and from this pulp, we are producing our fibers. We are working with a sustainable source that is both renewable and biodegradable," said Wolfgang Plasser, vice president of Lenzing's Business Unit Nonwovens.

With operations around the world, Lenzing's Viscose and Tencel brand has increased its profile in nonwovens as the industry's environmental awareness has grown. Lenzing Viscose has become environmentally responsible by continuous investments in research and development. “We recycle chemicals to reuse them in the production process. These recycling loops clearly differentiate Lenzing Viscose from other viscose fibers on the market," said Mr. Plasser.

Flushability of products, especially wipes is another trend that is gaining traction. “Short cut fibers support this procedure since they disperse in water. This allows the disposal via the wastewater system without burdening the drainage systems," said Mr. Plasser. Lenzing produces Tencel short cut fibers ranging from two to 12 millimeters in length. The application areas include flushable wipes as well as technical applications such as specialty papers for battery separators.

Lenzing is positioning itself for future growth by its recent acquisition of a 75% share in Czech pulp producer Biocel Paskov.

“We are doing our own pulp production to a certain extent and we are buying pulp from the free market. With this deal we have the opportunity to produce more pulp to meet the announced capacity expansions," said Mr. Plasser.

Another company helping to expand the role of viscose specialty fibers in nonwovens is Kelheim Fibres. The company's Danufil is used in all types of nonwovens; its Galaxy fiber is the world market leader in the production of tampons, and Viloft nonwoven is a fiber which is used for flushable wipes.

Kelheim's commercial director Matthew North, said, “Our fibers are made completely out of wood pulp and are therefore fully biodegradable. Viscose fibers are man-made and therefore exhibit consistent properties, which are not found in natural fibers. This is a very important aspect for further processing and the properties of the final product. Beyond that, our fibers can deliver different characteristics depending on the end use our customers are targeting. Galaxy, our tampon specialty fiber has extremely high absorbency. Viloft nonwoven is a very soft fiber and retains its softness in contact with fluids. After use, it enhances the disintegration process of nonwoven materials."

No stranger to the green movement, Mr. North said that viscose fibers have a proven track record in this area. “They are made completely out of wood pulp from managed plantations and are therefore fully biodegradable. In our production processes we make efficient use of resources such as energy and water. Our fibers meet the requirements of the FSC-Standard and are registered by Dincertco as a compostable material. They are certified to the Oeko-Tex 100 standard for use in baby applications, the most sensitive product area."

Emphasizing that Kelheim recently broadened its range of products to offer fibers with even more functionalities, Mr. North said its new viscose specialty Bellini offers a very high self-bonding capacity and is targeted to paper and wetlaid applications. “Verdi and Dante fibers excel by their increased absorbency in combination with a gel effect on the fiber surface. Medical products, like coagulating wound dressings, can benefit from this," said Mr. North.

Kelheim's Poseidon is a viscose specialty fiber with ion exchanging properties. “These fibers may easily be incorporated in papers or nonwovens—in contrast to ion exchange granulates—and these are used in filtration cartridges of any shape. Due to the very small size of the active particles and the high number of fine and short viscose fibers in the paper a very large active surface is obtained and with this, an excellent ion exchange quota," said Mr. North.

According to Mr. North the markets for specialty papers for tea bags, coffee pads and other types of filters are growing. “We are discovering new benefits resulting from the application of viscose fibers in different specialty papers," he said.

Picking Cotton

In addition to cellulose, cotton, perhaps one of the oldest and most well known natural fibers is gaining popularity in many nonwovens sectors. Much of this growth can be attributed to advances in spunlace technology to better process cotton but the efforts of Cotton Incorporated cannot be ignored.

Pointing out that the nonwovens industry developed around petrochemically based raw materials, Ms. O'Regan said, “The advancement in hydroentanglement technology paralleled the growth and supported the growth of the wipes industry and cotton was just a natural. It's absorbent, soft, hypoallergenic and biodegradable. There are a lot of benefits that really fit the market particularly when you are talking about contact with the skin. With wipes you don't want the ones on top dry and the bottom ones swimming. Cotton naturally absorbs the moisture right up into the fiber and holds it there very well."

Ms. O'Regan predicted that baby wipe, personal care wipe, household wipe and industrial wipe applications will continue to provide growth for cotton. Future growth is also expected to come from feminine hygiene, diapers and adult incontinence applications. “As people age, their skin becomes more sensitive. Against the skin of someone who has incontinence problems cotton is kinder and healthier than all other fibers," said Ms. O'Regan.

While cotton is favored for its absorbency and strength, particularly when wet, many critics argue that cotton is taking up land that could be used for food crops. Ms. O'Regan countered, “Over the past 50 years, our population around the world has grown from three billion to more than 6.8 billion. The demand for cotton has more than doubled over that time period. The amount of land used to provide that cotton to the markets has remained unchanged at approximately 35 million hectares. Furthermore, cotton seed is used for food as well as biodiesel fuel. The cotton plant contributes to feeding and clothing the world."

Cotton has also received a bad rap when it comes to the amount of water that is used to grow the crop. Ms. O'Regan argued, “In the U.S. two-thirds of the crop grows by virtue of natural rainfall. The other one-third gets targeted irrigation only where needed. On a global basis about half the crop gets some irrigation."

Virgin Cotton

Using virgin or raw cotton in nonwovens is another trend that is likely to become firmly entrenched in the nonwovens world. “As it is harvested and ginned cotton fiber is in its virgin or raw state. The fiber in that form is naturally hydrophobic and oleophilic. Sellars Wipers and Sorbents is one company which is using virgin cotton to make oil spill clean up pads for industrial uses. Studies with hydroentanglement technology have shown that when the virgin cotton is entangled, the water pressure and temperature wash some of the oils and pectin off the fibers. At the end of the line the material has the ability to absorb oil and water," said Ms. O'Regan.

One company betting on the growth of virgin cotton in the nonwovens arena is T.J. Beall Company. The company recently launched UltraClean 100% virgin cotton. Applications include hygiene products, feminine care hygiene, personal care, hard surface, industrial wipers, feminine hygiene products, filtration, home furnishing and bedding, geotextiles and healthcare.

Lawson Gary, T.J. Beall's president of manufacturing said, “It is an unbleached virgin cotton fiber that requires no chemicals, water or process heat to purify. The simplicity of our cleaning process ensures that our variable costs remain at a relatively low level and these cost savings are passed on to our customers. Our unique purification process allows us to offer one of the most competitively priced staple fibers on the market along with an unprecedented green story. Because our cleaning process does not strip the natural lubrication from the fibers there is little to no loss in production efficiency associated with running our fibers. Historically, natural fibers have gotten a bad name for not processing well on nonwovens machinery."

Cotton, Cotton, Everywhere

The trend to use a greater percentage of cotton in nonwovens, especially in wipes is showing signs of life. Mr. Hargrove said, “Cotton has been a mainstay in traditional consumer products like Q-tips, swabs, tampons and cotton balls for many years. About five years ago we began an initiative to introduce cotton into baby wipes. In 2009, nine of the top 10 mass-merchandisers in the U.S. market had cotton in their wipes as part of their blend."

Independent studies show that mothers prefer cotton in wipes. “There was further evidence that cotton outperformed other fibers in its wiping performance wet or dry," said Mr. Hargrove. “One survey asked women to feel fabric samples in a blind panel test which utilized cotton at different percentages and other fabrics made from rayon, Tencel and polyester. “In every case, the cotton-containing fabric was selected as the softest fabric. This was in a wet wipe form."

Mr. Hargrove predicted that cotton will be used in baby wipes, personal wipes for facial care and other skin-related hygiene products. Medical and cleanroom applications as well as household wipes will also begin to see cotton. “Cotton has proven to outperform other fibers and blends well with all other fibers," said Mr. Hargrove. He predicted that personal care products containing cotton will hit the shelves by mid 2010.

Another trend that is taking hold is cotton going into medical wiping products, feminine hygiene products and incontinence products. “These products typically have not had cotton. There's a broad appeal for cotton in any fabric close to the skin. Another trend for this year is for higher percentages (than the 15% that was originally used) of cotton to be used in substrates. You'll see products on the market this year in the 30% to 40% range because the higher percentage cotton you use the better the attributes of the cotton surface. You get increased softness and improved wiping performance. You'll see the trend toward higher percentages of cotton in the second half of the year," predicted Mr. Hargrove.

Emphasizing that five years ago most of the nonwovens rolls good producers did not have the capability of running cotton in their products, Mr. Hargrove said today most of them have improved their filtration systems and have cotton producing capabilities.

Polyester Performs

Experienced polyester fiber producer DAK Americas is also heading in a nonwovens direction with Delcron Hydrotec, a moisture management fiber that provides wicking ability. The fiber had its origin in textiles in knit goods. We've incorporated Hydrotec into nonwovens and spunlace. The key part of Hydrotec is that it's a permanent hydrophilic. It's integrated into the polymer itself. It won't wear off or wash off. It's in the polymer chemistry. It's in the early stages of spunlace. We think it will have an application in the wipes business. It was a fiber we've had as a product for several years. DAK Americas just introduced it into the nonwovens arena," said Mr. Proctor.

DAK Americas also offers SteriPur AM, a silver-based antimicrobial fiber aimed primarily at the needlepunch filtration market. “Silver inhibits the growth of bacteria. It's also permanent. It doesn't wash off or wear off. We have modified the polymer chemistry to deliver these functional attributes," said Mr. Proctor.
Another longstanding player, Consolidated Fibers offers bicomponent staple fibers, (copolyester bicomponent fibers, polyester core polyethylene sheath bicomponents and polypropylene core) which are used in thermal bonded nonwoven applications for airlaid feminine hygiene products, wipes, automotive interior trim parts, furniture and bedding.

The company's fiber roster also includes the following: rayon fibers for hygiene and wiping applications; flame retardant fibers for mattresses, bedding and automotive applications; colored fibers, such as black fiber for automotive end uses; Type 6 and Type 6,6 nylon staple; and recycled post consumer and post industrial polyester fibers.

Consolidated Fibers is seeing an increase in interest in its bamboo offering, according to Paul Latten, division president, international and technical fibers.
Pointing out that bamboo can be used mainly in wiping applications for their customers, Mr. Latten said in addition to an increased interest in sustainability, bamboo provides an alternative to viscose rayon. “The bamboo we sell uses a rayon process. Rayon has been tight in supply and the price has gone up. People are looking for an alternative to escalating rayon prices," he said.

Sweet As Sugar

One of the sweetest ideas in fibers for nonwovens is the use of polylactic acid (PLA). NatureWorks, a polymer manufacturer makes INGEO PLA resin, derived from plant sugars, for a more ecofriendly polymer option. Already the material has found a place in nonwovens wipes, diapers and feminine hygiene products.
Robert Green, NatureWorks' Americas director of fibers and nonwovens, said, “The unique characteristic of our material is that it is made from plant sugars so it's an annually renewable plant- based raw material that's replacing conventional plastics like polypropylene and polyester, which come from petroleum-based sources. It gives you a bio-based raw material source so you have more stable pricing over time that is not as subject to fluctuating oil prices. It's more environment friendly in that fewer greenhouse gases are produced from the manufacturing of the product-- compared to polyesters about 60% fewer greenhouse gases are generated and significantly less energy is required," said Mr. Green.

According to Mr. Green, Ingeo PLA has very good inherent wicking properties as well as UV performance and inherent flammability characteristics. “People are learning more about how to process it and how to take advantage of it in new and different applications and broaden the performance window. It has a melt- point in the same range as a polypropylene so if you are replacing a polyester fiber that may be something you have to look at in terms of how you process it," said Mr. Green.

Mr. Green foresees growth in PLA used in meltblown applications. “There's going to continue to be a lot of work in new applications being developed, whether a material by itself or in combination with other bio products or additives. We're just starting to scratch the surface. One additional advantage when combining our material with natural fibers is our material behaves like a thermoplastic. You can calender it, emboss it and thermal bond. With nonwovens there are so many different components. Our material provides a lot of options to help folks in the supply chain create more sustainable solutions be that in combination with cotton, a viscose or some other natural fiber or maybe even a recycled polyester."

Looking Ahead

Natural or Synthetic? While it's anyone's guess where the next innovative fiber for nonwovens will come from next, one thing is certain. Fiber suppliers in both camps are busy exploring the next must-have fiber for nonwovens.

Mr. Plasser envisions raw materials other than wood may play a role in the future of Lenzing's nonwoven fiber portfolio. Lenzing currently makes pulp from beachwood and eucalyptus. “There are some ideas to use alternative sustainable raw materials. We are currently looking at various options, but no decisions have been made for expanding the Lenzing nonwovens fiber portfolio," said Mr. Plasser.

Lenzing believes that there is a perception issue with wipes which are used once and thrown away. “Consumers want to know if they can degrade in soil or remain for decades like polyester which is not biodegradable and which is also used frequently in wipes. There's a proven test to show that a wipe made from Lenzing Viscose or Tencel will degrade in less than 12 weeks, which is the recognized international standard," said Mr. Plasser.

Emphasizing that in the future green issues will become even more important, Mr. Plasser said," It's a strong driver today but we see these things getting stronger from month to month and year to year. We have realized that there are differences concerning the importance consumers place on individual certifications. Beyond this, not all certificates are known in all countries. As a global player, we need to deal with that. When choosing certification schemes we do our best to meet the needs of the consumers. This is how we came up with certifica tions such as FSC or DIN CERTCO's compostable label,"said Mr. Plasser.

Cotton Incorporated's Ms. O'Regan foresees the future will include discoveries about how to utilize cotton in its many forms. “There is work underway around the world to better understand how cotton can bring value to the diverse nonwovens industry,"she said. USDA's Cotton Utilization and Chemistry group, located at the Southern Regional Research Center in New Orleans, LA is one group contributing to the advancement of knowledge pertaining to the use of cotton in nonwovens. Their aim is to help industry produce new and different products that bring value to markets and profits to companies.

Leigh's Mr. Martin expects there will be an increasing demand for natural fibers such as jute coffee bags and anaf, a coconut fiber. Mr. Martin envisions that more products will be designed to be recycled. He also forecasts that fire retardancy will become a dominant trend.

Mr. Painter said, “There are things we're not even realizing yet. Take a look at what goes to our landfills and think about how those can be reused or used again. We've got some affiliated companies we do business with who are recycling used carpeting, where they are able to bring that fiber back into use and be recycled as a carpet fiber."

For Consolidated Fibers the future is likely to include post consumer recycled fiber for spunlace, low cost bico fiber for airlaid wipes, a more “absorbent" polyester for spunlace and others. “Offering specific fiber solutions to our partners is a critical focus for us now. Whether it is consulting with a client to improve fiber processing, working with them to keep edge trim out of a landfill, or sharing fiber market knowledge from our team in the U.S., India, China, Korea and Mexico we are about helping customers solve problems. Value pricing is our everyday mission ... that continues,"said Mr. Latten.

In the next few years there will likely be more switching from polypropylene to polyester in some nonwoven applications, according to Mr. Latten. “For several years, polypropylene was less expensive than polyester. Now it is more expensive and expected to remain so for several years. One of the trends you're likely to see is a switch back from polypropylene to polyester in some applications. Several automotive applications have moved from poly - propylene to polyester. In some hygiene, geotextile, filtration and perhaps medical applications we may see a switch to polyester too," said Mr. Latten.

Perhaps Ms. O'Regan summed up the future of fibers in nonwovens best when she said, “Looking around the world, there is interest and a growing demand for sustainable, natural, biodegradable products. A couple of years ago, a lot of people thought sustainability was a fad. I don't think there is anyone who would not say this is the future of our lives and our industry. Customers will continue to put more demands on the nonwovens industry for products that not only perform, but that are sustainable, and won't harm the environment."

Texas Tech’s Institute of Environmental and Human Health is performing cutting edge research on new uses and applications of cotton nonwovens with continued support from the U.S. cotton industry and the Texas Department of Agriculture.
According to the Tech website, the Institute of Environmental and Human Health recently received $40,000 from the Texas Department of Agriculture and $15,000 from the U.S. cotton industry for two new projects involving cotton nonwovens.
Seshadri Ramkumar, an associate professor of environmental toxicology at the Institute of Environmental and Human Health, said they are trying to take Tech’s cotton research to a whole new level.
“Texas Tech has one of only three facilities to my knowledge that is working specifically on cotton nonwovens,” he said. “This is a big step towards the university’s goal of achieving Tier One status.”
According to the Workforce Solutions newsletter, research on cotton nonwovens originally began back in 2000 and 2001 when the Institute of Environmental and Human Health was expanded to include a new, high-tech, nonwoven fabric manufacturing and research facility.
“The total cost of the machine and facility was around $2 million,” Ramkumar said. “There are a total of eight people, including me, who are supported by the research grant to study the additional applications of cotton nonwovens.”
Through continued research and development, Dr. Ramkumar created Fibertect, a patented nonwoven textiles decontamination wipe unique to cotton nonwovens research.
Roger Haldenby, vice president of Plains Cotton Growers Inc., has supported Professor Ramkumar with his on-going research.
“Development of Fibertect is opening new, non-traditional opportunities for Texas high plain cotton,” Haldenby said. “Nonwovens from technical textiles can play a very important role in numerous areas.”
Ramkumar said he believes cotton nonwovens have many different uses.
“Cotton nonwovens can be useful as liner material in jackets and in the soles of shoes,” he said, “and it can be placed inside of walls to absorb sound.”
Halenby said nonwovens could also be valuable in aiding national defense, in the design of airplanes and automobiles, and for use in hospitals.
A big part of Fibertect’s versatility is due to its absorbency abilities, Ramkumar said.
“It can absorb up 15 times its own weight,” he said. “It is useful in cleaning up oil spills and is currently being used to clean soldiers’ wounds to aid in treating contamination or infection.”
The machine used to produce Fibertect is state-of-the-art, he said.
“The machine can take low quality cotton and turn it into high quality products,” he said. “This increases productivity and helps to create value-added products.”
The nonwovens machine also utilizes a special kind of needle technology unique to Tech.
“Texas Tech has the only facility to have needles on a curvature in its nonwoven machine,” Ramkumar said.
He said cotton nonwovens could be used in a variety of single-use products because of its cheap production costs.
“When costs go down, consumption increases,” Ramkumar said.
Justin Bailey, a junior psychology major from San Antonio, said anything that can be used to lower costs and make cheaper products is important, especially now in a struggling economy.
“The technology seems very useful in a lot of different ways,” he said. “It’s definitely good to see research like this receiving funding in a time when the economy is in a recession and everyone is suffering.”
The main advantage of cotton nonwovens over other materials is that it is environmentally friendly, Ramkumar said.

“Cotton is bio-friendly, making it much better than plastic,” he said. “The strength of cotton lies in its bio-degradability and the fact that it naturally degrades over time.”

Tech Performs Groundbreaking Research on Cotton Nonwovens

Texas Tech’s Institute of Environmental and Human Health is performing cutting edge research on new uses and applications of cotton nonwovens with continued support from the U.S. cotton industry and the Texas Department of Agriculture.
According to the Tech website, the Institute of Environmental and Human Health recently received $40,000 from the Texas Department of Agriculture and $15,000 from the U.S. cotton industry for two new projects involving cotton nonwovens.
Seshadri Ramkumar, an associate professor of environmental toxicology at the Institute of Environmental and Human Health, said they are trying to take Tech’s cotton research to a whole new level.
“Texas Tech has one of only three facilities to my knowledge that is working specifically on cotton nonwovens,” he said. “This is a big step towards the university’s goal of achieving Tier One status.”

According to the Workforce Solutions newsletter, research on cotton nonwovens originally began back in 2000 and 2001 when the Institute of Environmental and Human Health was expanded to include a new, high-tech, nonwoven fabric manufacturing and research facility.
“The total cost of the machine and facility was around $2 million,” Ramkumar said. “There are a total of eight people, including me, who are supported by the research grant to study the additional applications of cotton nonwovens.”
Through continued research and development, Dr. Ramkumar created Fibertect, a patented nonwoven textiles decontamination wipe unique to cotton nonwovens research.
Roger Haldenby, vice president of Plains Cotton Growers Inc., has supported Professor Ramkumar with his on-going research.
“Development of Fibertect is opening new, non-traditional opportunities for Texas high plain cotton,” Haldenby said. “Nonwovens from technical textiles can play a very important role in numerous areas.”
Ramkumar said he believes cotton nonwovens have many different uses.
“Cotton nonwovens can be useful as liner material in jackets and in the soles of shoes,” he said, “and it can be placed inside of walls to absorb sound.”
Halenby said nonwovens could also be valuable in aiding national defense, in the design of airplanes and automobiles, and for use in hospitals.
A big part of Fibertect’s versatility is due to its absorbency abilities, Ramkumar said.
“It can absorb up 15 times its own weight,” he said. “It is useful in cleaning up oil spills and is currently being used to clean soldiers’ wounds to aid in treating contamination or infection.”
The machine used to produce Fibertect is state-of-the-art, he said.
“The machine can take low quality cotton and turn it into high quality products,” he said. “This increases productivity and helps to create value-added products.”
The nonwovens machine also utilizes a special kind of needle technology unique to Tech.
“Texas Tech has the only facility to have needles on a curvature in its nonwoven machine,” Ramkumar said.
He said cotton nonwovens could be used in a variety of single-use products because of its cheap production costs.
“When costs go down, consumption increases,” Ramkumar said.
Justin Bailey, a junior psychology major from San Antonio, said anything that can be used to lower costs and make cheaper products is important, especially now in a struggling economy.
“The technology seems very useful in a lot of different ways,” he said. “It’s definitely good to see research like this receiving funding in a time when the economy is in a recession and everyone is suffering.”
The main advantage of cotton nonwovens over other materials is that it is environmentally friendly, Ramkumar said.
“Cotton is bio-friendly, making it much better than plastic,” he said. “The strength of cotton lies in its bio-degradability and the fact that it naturally degrades over time.”

new study about bt cotton

The study, by Glenn Stone, PhD, professor of anthropology in Arts & Sciences, appears in the March issue of the journal World Development.

In his paper, Stone compares village yields in 2003 and 2007, which conveniently had very similar levels of rainfall. “Cotton yields rose 18 percent with the adoption of genetically modified seeds,” Stone says. “This is less than what has been reported in some economics studies, but much better than activists have claimed.”

Pesticide sprayings also were down by 55 percent with the switch to genetically modified seed.

The crop in question is Bt cotton, genetically modified to produce its own insecticide. Approved for Indian farmers since 2002, the technology is being closely watched because it is the most widely planted GM crop on small farms in the developing world.

Many activists and commentators, including England’s Prince Charles, have accused Bt cotton of failing, ruining small farmers and causing suicides, Stone claims.

Several studies by economists, however, have shown Bt cotton farmers to be getting higher yields when compared with planters of conventional cotton.

“These economics studies have had a serious weakness,” says Stone, the incoming president of the Anthropology & Environment section of the American Anthropological Association. “The adopters of the new seeds tend to be the most prosperous and well-financed farmers, who were getting better yields than other farmers even before Bt seeds were adopted. Our anthropological research project used a different strategy to assess the seeds’ performance.”

Stone conducted long-term research in four villages in Andhra Pradesh, India. He found that in 2003, none of the village farmers had adopted Bt seeds, but by 2007, adoption was 100 percent.

In the paper, Stone also examines overall farm management, finding that the new seeds have come with their own set of problems.

“I would love to see Bt seeds as a real solution to these farmers’ insect problems, as many have claimed, but this may be a bit naive,” Stone says. “Conditions in the cotton fields change quickly. Populations of insects not affected by Bt have now begun to explode. We can’t forget that cotton farmers enthusiastically adopted pesticide sprays in the 1990s, only to watch them quickly lose their effectiveness.”

Stone shows that the farmers’ real problem was never just with cotton pests.

“Before Bt seeds appeared, these farmers had to contend with seed and spray brands and technologies that changed so quickly that the process of judicious experimentation and adoption had broken down,” he says.

The technology in genetically modified seedsis already starting to change at an even faster pace than conventional seeds and pesticides.

"Looking beyond the field level to the farm level you see the real problem was a set of factors that eroded the normal process of farmer evaluation of technologies — there were too many rapid, undecipherable changes," Stone says. "Each new technology — hybrids, then pesticide after pesticide — brought short-term gains but further eroded farm management. Bt cotton has raised yields on average, but already we are seeing erosion of benefits as non-target pest populations are booming. It has also brought a quickening of technological change and undecipherability, which is the real underlying problem."

Cotton city multan

The Present Day Multan

After the partition of the British India, Multan became an important city of the southern Punjab and has now developed into a thriving progressive city. Today, Multan stands as a combination of old and the new Pakistan culture. Over the years, the city has been turned into a prosperous commercial and industrial center. It is an important road and rail junction, an agricultural center, and a market for textiles, leather goods, and other products. The city's industries include metalworking, flour, sugar, and oil milling, and the manufacture of textiles, fertilizer, soap, and glass. Multan is also known for its handicrafts, especially blue pottery and enamel work.

The Persian couplet left translates ""With four rare things Multan abounds - Gard (dust), Garma (scorching summers), Gada (beggars) and Gooristan (graves)." One has to visit Multan to find out how true this saying goes about Multan. The very hot weather of Multan makes it ideal for the growth of crops like cotton and the most delicious mangoes in the world. Although, many countries like China and Brazil are entering into mango export, but those with a taste can always make out the difference between the mangoes from Multan-Pakistan and others. The special qualities of "Chaunsa, Anwar Ratol and Langra" are world famous for their tastes, flavour and sweetness. Shujabad tehsil of Multan produces some of the best mangoes in Pakistan.

Cotton Field - Mangoes and Mango Orchard

The Old City: The old city around the fort and within the remaining gates of Multan still has the hustle and bustle of any city of this age. Small alleys, overlooked by wooden galleries still exist and remind the visitors of its past glory. It is here that the real dwellers of Multan still have their ancestral abodes and cling to their traditions.

 

Old City is home to traditional Multani Artwork

The New Multan:  The new Multan with wider roads, brightly lit during night marks a sharp contrast to narrow alleys of walled city. Overhead bridges, glass showcased shops of electronics, mobile telephones, furniture and cloth are very frequently visited by all segments of society. In the city centre, near the flyover, stands tall the State Bank of Pakistan building. Other modern buildings include the self-help basis made Nishtar College, Clock Tower building of the Multan Municipal Corporation and the Bahauddin Zakaria University. The cantonment on Multan - Muzaffargarh road is the neatest living and commercial area. The Multan Garrison Mess (below left) is visible from far distance due to its peculiar style and white domes.

     

MGM (left) - Nishtar Medical College (2nd from left) - High Court Building (centre) - Pak Arab Fertilizer Factory (2nd from right) - Multan Underpass (right)

As for rest and recreation, the most favourite is the Lake Chaman Aar-e-Askari in the cantonment, besides Company Bagh in the Multan Fort, Lange Khan Garden, Aam-Khas Garden and the parks at Bohar Gate, Chowk Shaheedan, Tabbi Sher Khan and the Nawan (new) Shaher (City).

Multani Craftwork: Multan has so much to it that one can keep listing but the list doesn't end as far the handicrafts and artwork is concerned. Other than its famous blue pottery, the embroidery of Multan is second to none. Every small street and house has some needlework going on and one is really amazed to see totally illiterate women and men producing masterpiece stitch and needle work with exotic designs. Traders and Boutique owners flock Multan to buy these beautiful embroideries in bulk and and at almost throw away prices and sell the same at very high rates in big cities and even export.

Blue Pottery and cottage industry making raw cloth are other tow specialties of Multan. State owned Blue Pottery factory produces eye catching blue pottery vases, shields, pots, tiles and many more products. Besides, "Multani Khussa" - embroidered footwear both for men and women is also class of its own.

 

COTTON USA Sustainability

   

COTTON USA – Natural, Renewable & Sustainable
COTTON USA - the natural choice!

Consumer awareness of and interest in environmentally friendly products has increased in the past few years, as more products are labeled with “organic”, “sustainable” or “green”. In this increasingly environmentally-conscious world, cotton is the logical choice for today’s consumer.

Cotton is a natural, renewable and biodegradable fiber. Cotton has been used to dress and protect mankind for at least 7,000 years.

Today cotton is the fabric of a global industry that provides apparel such as T-shirts, lingerie and denim, home textiles such as sheets and towels, and even food and medical products. Cotton surrounds, comforts and nourishes us on a daily basis.

To ensure people can continue to reap cotton’s natural benefits, today and in the future, the U.S. cotton industry is committed to producing cotton in a sustainable manner, taking into account the economy, environment and social responsibility.

Sustainable agricultural production must consider a growing economy, protection for the environment, and social responsibility. The most sustainable choice is the one where the net effects come closest to meeting these goals.

Sustainability seeks to balance quality life, environment and economics.

 

• Modern technology minimizes the environmental impact of cotton production. U.S. farming with modern techniques means there is now less land, water and energy use, less soil erosion, and reduced pesticide application per unit output. Renewable production annually already saves over 1 billion liters of tractor fuel, 907 million metric tons of U.S. soil, and limits greenhouse gas (CO2) emissions.
  
  
• U.S. cotton can supply the world’s increasing demand for natural fibers on less land. Modern seed technology and conservation tillage practices help U.S. farmers yield more cotton while using less land and resources. U.S. cotton farmers have been able to supply the market and meet annual rise in fiber demand on reduced land area, freeing land for conservation and other uses.
  
  
• U.S. cotton production uses a small compared with other crops. Farmers who live and work on their land since generations have every personal and economic incentive to use fewer chemicals in production. Globally, only 8.5% of all pesticides applied to crops are used to grow cotton, while fruits and vegetables consumed about 29% and cereal crops including rice and corn about 35%.
  
  
• From a chemical residue standpoint, the amount on raw U.S. cotton fiber is as small as on organic cotton and satisfies eco-label standards.  Latest 2008 test results for chemical substances on raw cotton fiber from the Bremen Cotton Exchange in Germany prove again that all tested cotton, including U.S. cotton, satisfies EU Eco-Label standards and clearly passes the regulation as a foodstuff. They state that cotton, under German law, theoretically could be used as a food.
  
  
• U.S. regulatory agencies treat cotton as a food crop.  Cotton is a food and fiber crop.  Since cottonseed is used for both human and animal food, in the U.S. any crop protection products that are used in the production of cotton must meet the same regulations as any food crop. Salad and cooking oils are made of cottonseed oil, and linters are used in soups and pharmaceuticals.
  
  
• U.S. cotton is very drought and heat-tolerant. Only 35 percent of U.S. cotton acreage uses some form of supplemental irrigation – the other 65 percent survive solely on natural rainwater.
  
  
  

COTTON FACTS

• Cotton plays a role in reducing greenhouse gasses that contribute to global warming. All cotton plants extract CO2 from the air and emit oxygen back into the atmosphere. The amount of cotton used in a pair of jeans (about 1 kg), takes 1.5 kg of CO2 from the atmosphere and generates 1 kg of O2.  Carbon sequestered annually in the world cotton fiber supply is the oil equivalent of taking 7.25 million passenger vehicles from the highways.
  
  
• Cotton is a principal contributor to local economies. The production and processing of natural fibers worldwide employs hundreds of millions of people, particularly in developing countries. Cotton, alone, generates hundreds of billions of dollars in economic activity as it moves from production at the farm level through processing and retail.
  
  
• Consumers consider cotton as safe. Results from the Global Lifestyle Monitor™ show that consumers consider cotton to be the safest fiber for the environment, rating it a positive 8.58 on a 0 to 10 scale.
  
  
• Consumers prefer natural fibers such as cotton. Results from the Global Lifestyle Monitor™ show that 64% of global consumers would pay more for clothes made of natural fibers such as cotton, and more than half of the consumers surveyed worldwide believe that better quality clothes are made from 100 percent natural fiber such as cotton.
  

Additional information on cotton’s sustainability from Cotton Incorporated, CCI’s strategic partner in representing the U.S. cotton industry:

COTTON USA Fiber Trade Servicing

Ongoing education about U.S. cotton helps maintain traditional markets for U.S. cotton and facilitates export growth in potential markets. To expand knowledge among cotton importers about the technical advantages of using U.S. cotton and foster development of business relationships, CCI sponsors trade servicing activities that introduce U.S. cotton and the U.S. cotton industry to overseas textile industry leaders and provide regular updates on developments within the U.S. industry. Trade servicing activities also provide the vehicle for CCI to support other government/private sector programs such as the GSM-102, Cochran, Section 108 and Emerging Market programs. 

COTTON USA Manufactured Cotton Product Trade Servicing

High value agricultural products will comprise a growing share of world agricultural trade in the future – and cotton is no exception. Textile firms in many countries, particularly developed countries, are scaling back domestic processing in favor of buying intermediate products such as yarn and fabrics from countries that have competitive advantages in these stages of processing. This trend offers opportunities to the U.S. cotton textile in­dustry that, although cost-competitive in some stages of processing, has traditionally held a small share of world trade in manufactured cotton products.
Through its COTTON USA Manufactured Cotton Product Trade Servicing program, CCI works to increase U.S. market share by collecting information on current and potential markets for U.S. products, helping to establish and develop relationships between U.S. exporters and potential overseas customers and sponsoring events/venues for U.S. exporters to display products to customers. U.S.-manufactured cotton products are eligible for the COTTON USA promotional programs, and CCI staff works diligently to help exporters take advantage of these activities.
Through the COTTON USA Sourcing Program, CCI has developed a robust program of support for U.S. cotton yarn and fabric manufacturers targeted at countries in Central America/Caribbean (CBI) and the Andean region. In all cases, U.S. textile and apparel trade legislation, economics and geographical proximity offer attractive opportunities to move U.S. manufactured cotton yarn or fabric into those areas to be further processed into finished apparel. Each of these regions has a preferential trade agreement with the U.S. that favors yarn and fabric of U.S. origin, and CCI works closely with U.S. manufacturers to help them capitalize on potential sales to customers there.
With the financial and program involvement of 17 U.S. textile manufacturing companies, CCI carries out private sourcing fairs; participates in Trade Shows; sponsors a Web site; and directs mail and trade advertising, Internet searchable supplier lists, sourcing summits and a host of other services to maximize contact and sales information to prospective customers in the target regions. CCI works closely with the participating U.S. companies to design and implement the program. Cotton Incorporated is an active supporter and strategic partner in this program.

First Bt Cotton Grown in Pakistan

Cotton is an important cash crop for Pakistan known as “white gold”. It accounts for 8.2 percent of the value added in agriculture and about 3.2 percent to GDP; around two thirds of the country’s export earnings are from the cotton made-up and textiles which adds over $2.5 billion to the national economy; while hundreds of ginning factories and textile mills in the country heavily depends upon cotton. Life of millions of farmers is dependent on this crop, in addition to millions of people employed along the entire cotton value chain, from weaving to textile and garment exports The area under the cultivation of cotton crops has been increased significantly in the last 30 years - around 7.85 million acres in 2005-06 as compared to 7.2 million acres in 2002-03. Beside being the world’s fourth-largest cotton producer and the third largest exporter of raw cotton and a leading exporter of yarn in the world our yield per acres ranks 13th in the world; as a result Pakistan annually imports around 1.5-2.00 million bales of cotton to meet growing demand from local textile mills; therefore it has become vital for Pakistan to increase its yield per acre.

There are many reasons for low yields of cotton crop in Pakistan - high price of agriculture inputs (seeds, fertilizers, pesticides etc), higher intensity of insects and pests attack, shortage of good quality and varieties of seeds, deficiency of water for irrigation, lack of advance technologies, awareness and agro-professionalism, and adulterations in pesticides, fertilizers and seeds. It is unfortunate that there is no proper cotton crop insurance system available in Pakistan, while government does not provide any support or subsidy to cotton growers for inputs - resulted in frustration and lack of motivation in cotton growers. Farmers are facing with a number of risks till marketing of their crops including unexpected factors like inflation, high price of energy, unfair competition and speculation in open market by big cotton buyers. Although, government claims that they have excellent micro-economy policy to improve the livelihood of farmers and elimination of poverty in rural area through bank-loans offered to the farmers, however, the interest rates are fairly high.

Agriculture biotechnology is helping today to provide people with more and better crops, food and holds even greater promise for the future. Green revolution farming methods are coming to an end with declining yields due to environmental and soil degradation, loss of seedling varieties and high input costs. So, many farmers around the world are turning to genetic engineered varieties (GE) to confront with new challenges. Many Asian countries including China, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Pakistan and Vietnam are giving high priority to plant biotechnology research in the hope of addressing the pressing challenges related to improving productivity, farmers livelihoods, driving rural development, and meeting food security demands. Many of these countries focus their biotechnology research on food crops and non food crops and crops of high commercial value in the hope of meeting increasing food requirements and reducing use of pesticides and poverty alleviation in rural area.

If we look at the Pakistan scenario, two major types of pests are damaging our cotton crops – sucking and chewing; to certain extent it is easier to control sucking pest by strong pesticides but is very challenging to control chewing pests - Bollworms known as “Sundies” – American, Army, Pink and Spotted - cause major devastations in the cotton crop fields; as a result of this, overall both quality of lint and production of cotton have declined substantially. Moreover, recent disaster resulting from the cotton leaf curl virus (CLCV) spread in Punjab and Sindh pushed our institutes like Pakistan Atomic Energy Commission (PAEC), National Institute for Biotechnology and Genetic Engineering (NIBGE) and Nuclear Institute of Agriculture and Biology (NIAB) in Faisalabad, and National center of Excellence in Molecular Biology (NCEMB) at Punjab University Lahore to cope with such problems; significant amount of financial resources and manpower have been committed by the Government of Pakistan for developing genetically modified (GM) local cotton varieties.

Pakistan has already surpassed the major obstacle on its way to adapting to biotechnology by enacting the Biosafety Rules in April 2005. These rules setup legal requirements for import, export, transport, and handling of biological agents, genetic engineering organisms or vectors, seeds, crops and foods, besides setting conditions for the researchers; seeds developers and companies. Usually it takes two to three years to do proper assessment for any Biotech crops before its commercialization. Whereas, Pakistan Atomic energy Commission (PAEC) had sought special permission in 1997 from the Ministry of Environment under “Voluntary Code of Conduct for release of GMO into the environment” prepared by NIBGE; and it conducted, checked and analyzed many safety tests on various cotton varieties which contain gene of genetically modified organism called Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a bacterium that is deadly to the “Sundies”.

In May 2005 PAEC provided 40,000.00 Kg basic seed of Bt cotton (insect resistant) varieties “IR-FH-901”, “IR-NIBGE-2”, “IR-CIM-448” and “IR-CIM-443”; which have been grown over 8,000 acres of land in season 2005-06. Its encouraging outcomes have surprised every one from seed companies to the farmers who cultivated these varieties. These early users of Bt cotton have been tightly screened and evaluated by PAEC on the bases of their capacity to follow Bio-safety rules.

Farmers, who cultivated these Bt cotton varieties at heart of cotton growing regions in Punjab - Bahawalpur, Multan, Muzaffer Garh and Karor Pakka; observed and evaluated independently its resistance and susceptibility to different pests including factors like abiotic stress and yield than compared it with non Bt cotton varieties grown in the same locations. A large number of farmers have visited these fields, and become aware of the benefits of the locally developed Bt cotton.

Although germination of these Bt cotton seed varieties vary from 65 %, to 85 %, but mixing or impurities were less than 2 %. In the beginning overall attack of “Lashkari Sundi” “American Sundi” and other bollworms remained low as compared to previous years but attack of sucking pests like Jassid, Whitefly, Thrips and other Aphid were high in both Bt and non Bt cotton crops. No serious incidence of cotton leaf curl virus disease was reported in Bt cotton varieties. Heat stress in cotton crop was also recorded in different region, however no stress was observed in Bt cotton varieties. Army, Pink and Spotted bollworm were active from July to October with peak infestation during September but Army remained in the field after spray for limited time period; IR-901, IR 448 and NIBGE 2 with minimum damage was recorded as compare to non Bt cotton crops. It is worth mentioning that infestation of American, Pink and Spotted sundies remained significantly low throughout the season in Bt varieties as compare to infestation in non Bt cotton varieties. Maximum alive larvae of Army, pink and spotted bollworm were recorded in fields of non Bt varieties around 7-8 per 15 plants while only larvae of Army bollworm were recorded in IR- 448, IR 901 and NIBGE-1 around 3 – 4 larvae in 15 plants. It is also important that newly hatched Helicoverpa Armigera when eat leaves of the Bt cotton crops died after few days; no larvae reached to pupal stage while in non Bt it has developed into pupa. Significant number of spray has decline in Bt cotton varieties; 4 – 5 applications as compare to non Bt cotton crop 6 – 9; most of spray were used to control sucking pests; however in chewing; pests spray was required to control Lashkari sundi. Although Bt cotton also provides significant control of targeted bollworms but supplemental foliar insecticide sprays are occasionally required to keep other bollworms from causing excessive damage in Bt fields.

Bt cotton varieties yielded significantly more per acre as compare to non Bt cotton varieties - an average 23-28 maund (1 Maund = 40 Kg) per acres versus 17-20 maund to traditional cotton varieties. This translates into more than 30 percent increase in yield. It is noteworthy that in Bt cotton crops average number of cotton Bolls per plant are 120 while average Boll weight is app. 1.75 grams including seeds and number of plants per acre are as recommended by the department of agriculture. The economical gain by using Bt cotton per acre is more than Pak Rs. 3,000 at the market sale price of Rs. 1100/ Maund. In Pakistan average cotton grower has 10 acres of land; increase in such small income per acre would improve his quality of life. It is expected that cotton growers should have Bt seeds of the above varieties for at least 75,000 acres of land in year 2006-07.

Besides cotton lint; tons of edible oil is extracted from cottonseed in addition to that over two million tons of oil seedcake is also produced as feed for livestock and poultry. Series of safety studies have been carried out at NIBGE including health risk assessment and environmental concerns; it conducted that Bt cotton leaves/feed has no health hazards and side effects on human, animals and it safe for environment. These studies created a positive consciousness and confidence among the Pakistani scientist and people about Bt cotton. In February 2006, World Trade Organization ruling against European Union; directs the EU to end its defacto moratorium on biotech crops and GM food. EU had an effective ban on biotech foods for six years beginning in 1998 while ended its moratorium in 2004; it began allowing imports of GM products on a case-by-case basis, individual. EU grows less than 1% of the world's gene-modified crops and has approved more than 30 GM food and animal products since 1994. Washington has said it will continue with its WTO case until it is convinced that all applications for approval are being decided on scientific rather than political grounds; the ruling supports a 15-year study funded by the European Union itself found that biotech plants and products have not “shown any new risks to human health or the environment” and concluded that these foods are in fact safer than conventional foods- this curb on imports of GM foods should bring great benefits to farmers and rural areas worldwide.

Today, all major cotton producing countries are benefiting from the cultivation of Bt Cotton. In the last season 54 percent of cotton crops grown in USA, 76 percent in China and 80 percent in Australia were with “single” or “double” Bt gene technology. India, the world’s third-largest cotton-grower has cultivated 1.36 million acres of Bt cotton crops. It is expected that within two years more than half the world’s cotton may be grown from genetically modified crops.

Pakistan also realizes the significance of Bt Cotton, and the top political leadership including the Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz himself has said to a delegation of farmers that government would allow farmers to grow Bt cotton soon, which confirms government’s policy of being open to genetically modified crops in the near future. Other ministers have also spoken in favor of adopting the Bt Cotton.

Crop reviews carried out by various independent sources illustrate that unrecorded sowing of new Bt cotton varieties also played its role in increasing cotton productivity, with unofficial estimates suggesting 3 to 5 percent of the area in Punjab and 10 to 15 percent of the area in Sindh may have been planted in transgenic cotton.

We shall discuss the unapproved varieties of Bt Cotton separately because these exotic varieties are throwing different and some very serious challenges to the cotton crop in Pakistan. Nevertheless, the indigenously developed IR-cotton varieties with Bt gene have proven resistance to cotton’s major bollworms, and have a potential to reduce the number of pesticide sprays and will be friendly to environmental. It will increase yield per acre and reduce cost of production. However, few issues related to seed quality have been reported, which have no link with Bt technology and are germplasm specific. These problems must be addressed in the new version of Bt varieties like size of bolls, maturity period etc.

Biotechnology offers tremendous benefits to the agriculture in Pakistan. But in order to benefit from its true potential, government and all key stakeholders including farmers, seed companies, R & D institutes, seed dealers and traders involved in commercial activity related to seed will have to act responsibly and ethically. If we choose to ignore regulatory frameworks that govern the chain of activity, and international agreements on biosafety that Pakistan is signatory to, to make quick bucks or in an attempt to provide a speedy access of technology to the farmers, we shall end up losing the benefits from the technology in the long run by undermining it. We have to ensure effective, stringent, and transparent enforcement of Biosafety Rules 2005, Seed Act 1976, and Punjab Cotton Control Ordinance, to encourage the introduction of technology through legal means with its complete package of benefits.

Farmers! Please be advised that…

 Select only approved Bt Cotton varieties by the Government of Pakistan, and avoid pirated Bt cotton varieties or fake bands under name of Bt cotton seeds available in the market. These varieties could potentially serious damage crops, our health and environment. The uncontrolled release of genetically engineered varieties might irreversibly damage our cotton crop, just like “Banana Bunchy virus” from untested and non approved variety of banana from Australia has done in Sindh. These exotic and unapproved Bt cotton varieties are invariably susceptible to Jassid attack and are very vulnerable to CLCV. In year 2002 “Burewala visrus” which resulted in huge losses to the cotton crop in the country, was due to the introduction of a foreign untested variety that was not suitable to our soil and climate.

 Bt seeds are highly dependent on agro climatic conditions, genotype of the variety and management of crop. In some areas, certain Bt varieties may be inappropriate for local growing conditions and may fail to produce satisfactory results. For example under high night temperatures and under hot dry conditions, bolls may drop off the plants. Therefore use only those approved Bt cottonseeds varieties; which are tested for your local agro-climatic conditions.

 Bt varieties provides protection only against certain pests (sundies) such as, American sundie, Pink and Spotted sundies; but not against Army or Lashkari sundi; you have to spray if you find pests which cannot be controlled other wise you will lose your crops and money.

 Right dose of Bt toxin “Cry-protein” in very crucial in each Bt seed; if we keep growing the same Bt seed over time; the right amount of Bt toxin will reduce and pests will develop resistance to Bt toxin – so it will harm our agriculture, may be health, environment and undermine the emerging technology.

 So far, no Bt cotton developer has claimed that Bt varieties would increase yield due to presence of genetically modified organism; however, the increase in yield can be achieved since the crop is protected from the damages caused by pests.

 Don’t be disheartened from the original technology, as the half-baked technology in your access does not represent the true benefits of Bt Cotto